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Outfitter: Sy Gilliland
I just decided to include a couple of letters below that I wrote to my 2005 hunters (prices have changed). It explains things in more detail. Deer and elk seasons don't overlap so combo hunts in my area are not possible, except moose. Moose hunt can be combined, but very tough to draw for moose, about 5% odds. For those who aren't sure whether they would like to hunt elk or deer, I would advise you to apply for elk (app deadline Jan 31) and then if you draw (drawing results by the end of February) go elk hunting instead of deer hunting. If you don't draw elk then you can apply for deer (app deadline March 15). Deer drawing takes place about July 1. Special license for elk is $893, Regular is $493. Special license for deer is $473, Regular is $273. Once you have drawn the license it is the same, as far as hunting. They just get more money for better odds on the draw, depending on number of applicants.. Preference is given to repeat hunters. I know them and they know me, therefore they get preference. However, because of the draw I always have several new hunters, about 1/4 of the hunters are new, so you have a good chance of becoming a "repeat" hunter for future years. In the unlikely event that you draw and I am booked full (you are too far down the list by deposit date) I will place you with a neighboring outfitter who does a good job. I have 3 or 4 of them near me who I would trust to hunt with myself. They do a good job and hunt the same quality game. I've only drawn too many hunters twice in 20 years. If you draw you are obligating yourself to the full price of the hunt, whether you show up in camp or not, simply because you are taking the place of someone who would love to come. Trip insurance is reasonably inexpensive compared to the cost of the hunt. It pays if an emergency prevents your participation in the hunt. In 2004, four hunters had to cancel at the last minute because of health reasons. And then there is always the possibility of a terrorist attack which shuts down the airlines. That is also covered. So, for about $160 (depending on your age and cost of your hunt) you can insure your hunt. Too bad we can't insure that you will kill. The insurance also covers a lot of other things, like injury during the hunt or helicopter life flight out. One outfitter in 2004 had a hunter blow out his knee and had to be flighted out. Total cost of flight and surgery was $12,000. The insurance would have paid it had the guy had that insurance. Anyway, I STRONGLY recommend that you buy it. And finally, I am requiring all hunts to be paid in full by August 1. This is necessitated simply by last minute cancellations in 2004. I truly feel sorry for hunter's health or business problems but I simply can't afford to have several thousand dollars not show up at camp. You guys are worth more than money to me but your friendship doesn't carry a lot of weight with my banker. My guides and I give full effort to helping you have a great hunt and I hope this change in policy isn't a big problem. Many of you pay well in advance anyway, so it is not much difference for you. Anyway, I hope that helps in understanding the booking process. I sincerely
hope you draw a permit and get to hunt with me. Frequently asked questions: This letter is to help you avoid some common mistakes made yearly and answer some common questions. Safety will be first and foremost in everyone's mind especially with regards to gun safety. We require that firearms be carried at all times without a round in the chamber. The only exception to this is when you prepare to sneak over a ridge or are sneaking through the timber. The guide will advise you. Always open your bolt to be sure no rounds were chambered before putting your firearm back into the rifle scabbard on your horse or into the vehicle. While in camp all firearms are to remain empty. Muzzle control shall be demanded at all times. If the guide tells you to watch your muzzle, immediately point it in a safe direction and do not make that mistake twice. To date we have never experienced an accident and we will continue our record as long as you cooperate. All Wyoming Game & Fish laws will be strictly adhered to. NO EXCEPTIONS. The license issued to you cannot be transferred to another hunter or to us when you leave. You cannot shoot game for any hunter but yourself and the guide cannot shoot your animal for you. If you are required to have a hunter safety card it must be carried in the field with you. This applies if you were born 1966 or after. If you have any problems whatsoever please discuss these with Jonesy immediately. It's best to solve problems quickly rather than letting them build. Equipment list; 1. Canteen, small plastic quart size that
will fit in a saddle-bag or day pack is best. In the high timberline country
there is not much water and the streams have giardia bacteria in them (like a
bad case of the flu). 2. Small pocket flashlight with extra batteries. 3.
Thermal underwear. 4. Warm coat and a light jacket. Wool, flannel, or polar
fleece is preferred for all clothing because it is quiet. Noisy materials like
nylon MUST be avoided. 5. Boots with a good lug sole. Insulated and waterproof
are recommended. Weather can be cold and wet or warm and dry, even in the same
week. Typical weather is September 20o to 70o, October 10o
to 50o. 6. Camera. 7. Binoculars. We will spend a lot of time with these, so get used to them. 8. Spotting scope for deer hunters if you have it. The guides carry one, but you may want your own to help locate that buck. Elk hunters don't need a spotting scope. We can usually tell with binoculars if he is worth going after. 9. Cap or hat of some kind. I like a cowboy hat because the wide brim helps keep the rain off. I carry a warm cap with ear flaps in my saddlebags. 10. The law requires one clothing article of blaze orange to be worn above the waist and visible from all directions. I use a blaze orange hat cover. A lightweight vest is very good. 11. Any caliber rifle from .243 on up is legal and adequate if you can shoot it straight. Don't go out and buy a huge magnum just because your favorite gun writer says an elk or big mulie is hard to kill. Any critter is tough if you gut shoot it or hit it on the point of the shoulder. Hit it in the rib cage or in the neck and your favorite deer rifle will do just fine and I'm sure you can shoot it straighter than a cannon that you have just bought. 12. If you have any tack such as rifle scabbard, saddlebags, or even a favorite saddle you are welcome to bring it, although I do provide these items. If you have an oversize rifle, or have a bipod on it, you may need a special scabbard. Get it to fit and I'll buy it from you when you leave. 13. You will need a $10 conservation stamp which must be carried with you while hunting. You can buy it when you arrive in Wyoming from a sporting goods store. Bowhunters also need an archery license, available from sporting goods stores or G&F. Elk hunters also need a $10 Special Elk Management stamp (to pay for elk feedgrounds). 14. Sleeping bag and pillow. I provide sleeping bags and pillows if you are flying in or if you forget yours. 15. Towel. I have extra canteens and gear, so if you forget something we can usually make do. 16. Please don't bring new equipment you are unfamiliar with. It will likely cost you that trophy. Keep gear simple and usable. Those blinkety-blank bipods on rifles have cost us a lot of trophies because the slope of the hill isn't right or the grass/sagebrush is too tall, or they won't come out of the scabbard quickly enough. I recommend you leave them home but it is up to you. It is your hunt. Tips: I receive numerous questions each year about tips for the guides and cooks. How much do I tip and when? A tip is a personal thing and no-one need know how much you tipped if you put it in an envelope labeled guide, cook, or wrangler. Handing it to them in that manner is a good way to do it so that you won't feel embarrassed if you can't afford a large amount or you won't feel 'uppity' if you can afford a very generous tip for a job well done. It also avoids having the guide, cook, or wrangler see at a glance how much you tipped them. Some of my hunters are rich, some save for years for a hunt, so tips vary widely. The customary amount for a guide tip is about 10% of your hunt price. The best time to tip is at the kill site or the same day back at camp, directly to the guide. Cooks customarily receive $40.00 to $60.00, camp jacks/wrangler $20.00 to $40.00 from each hunter. The reason I have enclosed this is so that you can foresee all potential expenses. Guides, Cooks, and Camp Jacks work very hard and count on tips as part of their compensation. Please don't hand the tip to me to give to them unless they are gone, as a personal thank you from you means much more.
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